Alexander Payneis a writer-director perhaps best known for theReese WitherspoonhitElection, which PresidentBarack Obamahimself calledhis favorite political film. Payne followed upElection’s success withAbout Schmidt, starringJack Nicholson. From there, it seemed like Payne could make whatever film he wanted, so it was a surprise to some that the auteur chose to make a modest comedy-drama about two friends in wine country: 2004’sSideways, which is based onRex Pickett’s novel of the same name. The film aided the success ofPaul Giamatti(currently blowing audiences away inPayne’sThe Holdovers) andThomas Hayden Church’s respective acting careers, but did you know it also dictated the success of certain wine grapes too?
Sidewaysstars Giamatti in a breakout role as unpublished writer Miles Raymond. The depressed English teacher takes his former college roommate Jack Cole (Hayden Church) through the Santa Ynez Valley for Jack’s bachelor party. Similarly to Miles, Jack is an actor relegated to a more secure job, soon to join his father-in-law’s real estate business. Miles is established as a bitter and selfish man, stealing $900 from his own mother on her birthday. Jack is also a bad person, looking for one last sexual affair before getting married. Why is it, then, that such despicable characters could influence such a huge number of the public? In short,Sidewaysis a film that both celebrates and parodies wine snobbery, making it a disarming romp. This is the reason it became so powerful in indirectly affecting the wine market itself.
Two men reaching middle age with not much to show but disappointment embark on a week-long road trip through California’s wine country, just as one is about to take a trip down the aisle.
‘Sideways’ Insisted Merlot Was Overrated, and the Market Responded
During their wine country road trip, Miles and Jack meet Maya (Virginia Madsen) and Stephanie (Sandra Oh) who hit it off with the men. Jack tries to woo Stephanie while on a double date with Miles and Maya, but before they go in Jack feels the need to coach Miles. In addition to lying about the state of his writing career, Jack instructs Miles, “If they want to drink Merlot, we’re drinking Merlot.” This is where Jack crosses the line in Miles' eyes, causing him to snap. “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” Jack quickly goes back on his words and agrees that was too far. “OK, OK, relax Miles! Jesus, no Merlot.” Later, Jack and Stephanie sleep together, with Jack telling Miles he’s fallen in love with her and is thinking of moving to Santa Ynez.
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Giamatti’s performance leaves no room to suggest that the film is anything other than parody.
“Poor Merlot,” says Blendtique Wine Co.‘sBilly Dim. “Merlot is one of the best grapes on the planet and the movie did some damage to its reputation.“According to NPR, a 2009 case study by Sonoma State University economics professor Steven Cuellar found that Merlot sales declined around 2%, beginning merely three months after the film’s release in 2004, and continuing until 2008. But that’s not the only way in whichSidewaysturned the wine market… well, sideways! It also had a positive effect, boosting the sales of an alternative grape. This is an amazing feat considering this is a movie that also features Miles drinking from a spit bucket. The scene takes place after Miles hears from his agent that his manuscript has been rejected. Upset, he berates a porer over a “full pour” of wine, leading to Miles causing a scene.
Pinor Noir Sales Skyrocketed as a Result of ‘Sideways’
Even nearly two decades afterSidewayswas released, the wine industry is still witnessing what has been called “The Sideways Effect.” Winemakers credit the film not only with the decline of Merlot sales but also with bringing deserved attention to Pinot Noir instead. Vineyard Financial Associates' wine industry analyst Gabriel Froymovich stated, “Pinot Noir production in California has increased roughly 170 percent sinceSidewayswas released,” noting that total wine grape production has increased 7-8% during that time. “I think people who were into wine saw the passion for Pinot Noir in the movie, decided to explore that variety a bit, and realized how lovely a wine that grape makes.” During the same period that Merlot sales declined by 2%, Pinot Noir sales increased 16%, making it the second-most-planted varietal in California’s Sonoma County according to NPR.
This is in no small part due toGiamatti’s stellar performance as Miles, who despite his stubbornness and self-entitlement, has proven sympathetic enough to wine and film lovers alike, that audiences have opted to take his wine advice in massive quantities.Sidewaysproves the real influence movies have on the world, but their power doesn’t just extend to the wine industry.
‘Sideways’ Uses Wine Culture To Express a Deeper Message
During the events of the film, Miles drunkenly calls his ex-wife Victoria (played byFriendsandBreaking BadstarJessica Hecht). He learns that she has remarried and is bringing her husband to Jack’s wedding. Miles simultaneously begins a relationship with Maya, bonding over their love of wine, but ultimately leaves Maya behind at the end of the trip. At the wedding, Miles meets Victoria’s new husband Ken (Lee Brooks), and is informed they’re expecting a child together. Upset, Miles leaves before the reception to drink his prized 1961 Château Cheval Blanc from a styrofoam fast-food cup with his meal of a cheap burger and onion rings. Back at his teaching job again, Miles gets a call from Maya who says she personally enjoyed his manuscript, and Miles opts to drive back to wine country to pursue a relationship with her.
Sidewaysutilizes wine culture as a metaphor for internalized elitism. Much like Miles’ disdain for Merlot, he detests a world in which his self-proclaimed talent can be so overlooked. Instead, he perceives his untapped potential like an unopened bottle of Château Cheval Blanc. Miles struggles with the reality that life, like wine, is a rich spectrum to sample. Having failed at his marriage and his career ambitions, he sees himself as a loser. However, when he gives in and drinks the Château Cheval Blanc from a styrofoam cup, it’s clear he accepts that wine is just wine, and life doesn’t go as planned when one is too focused on the way it’s perceived by others. Maya represents the small, intimate ways in which a life and a talent can spread positivity, and Miles discards his preconceived ideas of his life plan for a chance at real happiness.
